The Comprehensive Manual for Poodle Breeders
Written by : Graeme McKenzie at Poodlecentral
Novice Poodle Breeder’s Comprehensive Manual
Table of Contents
1. Introduction
• Welcome to Dog Breeding
• Importance of Responsible Breeding
2. DNA Testing at Massey University Palmerston North, NZ
• Understanding DNA Testing
• Benefits of DNA Testing in Breeding
• Collaborating with Massey University
• Interpreting DNA Test Results
3. Dogs in Heat
• Understanding the Estrus Cycle
• Signs of Heat in Dogs
• Importance of Tracking Heat Cycles
• Behavior and Care During Heat
4. When to Service
• Optimal Timing for Breeding
• Monitoring Ovulation
• Consulting with a Veterinarian
5. How Many Times to Service
• Considering the Bitch’s Fertility
• Factors Affecting Successful Mating
• Recommended Number of Services
6. Dog Gestation and Feeding During Gestation
• Understanding Dog Gestation Period
• Monitoring the Pregnant Bitch
• Proper Nutrition for Pregnant Dogs
• Consultation with a Vet for Dietary Plan
7. Whelping and Care of the Puppies
• Preparing for Whelping
• Creating a Whelping Area
• Assisting During the Birthing Process
• Cleaning and Handling Newborn Puppies
8. Feeding the Bitch After She Has Whelped
• Transitioning to Postpartum Diet
• Nutritional Needs of Lactating Dogs
• Monitoring the Bitch’s Health
9. Conclusion
• Nurturing Healthy Puppies
• Continuous Learning and Improvement
• Impact of Responsible Breeding
Chapter 1: Introduction
Welcome to Poodle Breeding!
This manual aims to equip novice poodle breeders with essential knowledge about various aspects of breeding.
Responsible breeding ensures the health and welfare of both the mother and the puppies, and it contributes to maintaining the breed’s integrity.
Chapter 2: DNA Testing at Massey University Palmerston North, NZ
DNA testing plays a crucial role in modern dog breeding. Collaborating with institutions like Massey University can help you perform genetic tests that identify potential health issues and genetic traits in your breeding dogs. Understanding these results helps you make informed breeding decisions. Ensure both the dog and bitch have been DNA profiled for both breed and health. Here is the email address of the HOD genetics ; Michelle Fremaux at Massey University [M.Fremaux@massey.ac.nz]
Michelle will guide you through the process. They send you the swabs with instructions of how to do the saliva/ mouth swab.
It is not outrageously expensive. They do the health testing onsite ( 7 to 14 days ) and send the breed testing overseas ( 90 days )
Chapter 3: Dogs in Heat
Knowing the stages of your female dog’s estrus cycle is fundamental. Recognize the signs of heat, which include a swollen vulva and changes in behavior. Tracking heat cycles is essential for timing successful matings.
Put the timing in your phone as a reminder … the bitch will be 6 months old +- when she comes into her first heat. Do NOT breed her on this heat. Wait until the third heat ( 18 months old )
Once you notice the drips and swollen vulva pop the date in your notes on your phone. She should stop dripping after a week. Remember, this may happen earlier if you missed the first couple of days of her cycle, so keep an eye on her. When she stops dripping she is ready for service. She will stand for the dog for a week. Then the switch will flick and he will be persona non gratia for the remaining week.
Chapter 4: When to Service
Successful breeding depends on accurate timing. Monitoring ovulation is key to determining the optimal time for mating. Consulting with a veterinarian can aid in determining the ideal moment for breeding. You can do a test at the vet or you can run on the seat of your pants.
Chapter 5: How Many Times to Service
Factors such as fertility and timing influence successful mating. Depending on the circumstances, your veterinarian might recommend multiple services during the female’s heat cycle. But in essence we service day 3 and day 5 of the middle week of her heat. REMEMBER to lock the bitch up while on heat. She will be a SUPER SLUT while standing and will go looking for sex off your section if she can.
Chapter 6: Dog Gestation and Feeding During Gestation
Understanding the dog’s gestation period (poodles are 63 days / 9 weeks from first mating ) is vital. Monitor the pregnant bitch’s health and behaviour. Provide a balanced diet with appropriate nutrients for her changing needs. Feed good food while pregnant. Science diet is great or use our recipe for soft food. Feed 2 x / day
Chapter 7: Whelping and Care of the Puppies
Prepare a safe and comfortable whelping area. Understand the signs of imminent whelping, and assist the mother as needed. Handle the newborn puppies gently, ensuring their warmth and proper attachment to the mother for nursing.
We use a cage/ crate to welp in. Put a couple of towels down then put the heating pad off centre in the bottom and put a blanket down. Put more towels on top that you can change when she is finished. Set your heating pad to 30 degrees and leave it on for 3 weeks at least. In the winter we leave it on until they are running around outside.
Labour : Just like a human they go into labour .. it can be up to 12 hours. She will be uncomfortable and unsettled. And she may start to nest. If she disappears look for her in all the quiet dark spots… under the bed , in the wardrobe etc You know when she is due to welp, as you can count off the days on the calendar. It is normally right on-time.
She will have the pups one at a time, about an hour apart and she should lick and chew open the sack. Maiden bitches may need help to open the first sack, normally once its open instinct kicks in and they know what to do. If you have one that isn’t moving then use a flannel and give it a good gentle rub.. once its moving pop it back in the bed with the bitch. Having an eye dropper on hand to suck the mucus out of their nose is recommended ( Ive never had to use it )
If your bitch decides she needs to go out to the toilet while having pups , GO WITH HER … sometimes they think they need a poo but actually its a pup. If she has a pup outside scoop her and the pup up and pop her back in the welping box.
Chapter 8: Feeding the Bitch After She Has Whelped
Transition the bitch to a postpartum diet to support her recovery and milk production. Lactating dogs need increased nutrition; ensure she has access to fresh water at all times.
We feed 4 times a day ( soft food, mince and rice .. see the recipe at the end of the manual ) Use soy or almond milk as well. The bitch eats the placenta so she is well fed while having the pups but she will be extremely tired so its important to give her plenty of food and milk in the crate. So it’s on demand.
The bitch will feed for 4 – 5 weeks full time. During this time she will clean up after them.
They sleep most of the time and the bitch will need privacy IE a covered warm crate.
The pups need their bed changed daily We use a cut up wool mattress topper for them to sleep on. So change the towel under them, and the topper each day after day 3 until they are looking for solids.
Odd times you may have a prem pup ( whilst born at the same timew as the others it will be way smaller. Sometimes referred to as the runt of the litter. This phenomenon is actually related to the date /time of conception .. the runt is the last to be conceived. If you service twice a couple of days apart them the swimmers are active for 4 days the runt could be a full 8 days younger thanb its littermates. Doesnt sound much but put it into relativity human gestation 36 weeks a prem could be 4 weeks early , dog gestation 9 weeks from the first service and the runt is born after 8 weeks.
We use Royal canin puppy formula. Its good , has the much needed colostrums in it. it doesn’t go off while the sachets are sealed. Get it from your vet or the larger pet stores. Its easy to mix up comes with the small teats and bottle. Put this formula into play if you have a small one that is not feeding. 3 days of 2 hourly feeds and it should be fine. For new born pups 2 – 4 mils is heaps per feed. I warm it in a jug of hot water.. same temp as a baby. A dog temp is slightly warmer than a human. Once the pup is back to really wriggly then try to get mum to feed it pop it in the mix with its siblings. Check their tummies , you can easily see if they are full.
Tip : start the bottle while it still has suck reflex as once the pup goes downhill, its much more difficult to get them sucking.
You will know when to start feeding solids ( the bitch will start to regurgitate food in the bed for them or they will be making a racket and wont settle )
We use the mince and rice mix with soy milk to make it really sloppy… warm it in the nuke in a low dish. They will be into it like a dogs dinner ( no pun intended )
Feed 3 times a day … the pups should be settled after eating and don’t worry if the bitch helps them … she is showing them its good to eat.
We tend to ween the pups after 6 weeks.
Once you start feeding them the bitch will stop cleaning up… now its your job.
We use the dog toilets on Trademe.co.nz … just search dog toilet if the link has expired.
Chapter 9: Sales …
We sell 95% of our pups using our website.
Our website was built by Vajira and he also did the SEO ( search engine optimisation ) His charges are reasonable and we are on the first page of Google searches for poodles and poodle puppies alongside trademe and dogs nz . We did no black hat stuff it was all done above board generically and free of charge. We did no google advertising at all.
Prior to having the website we sold our pups on Trademe … its actually a useful tool.
List the pups at 5 weeks of age with a blurb and pics of the litter, update the pics every 4 days and add to the blurb … tell the story .. the pups are feeding well and once they start using the toilet add that in and so on. Start a you tube channel and upload short video clips, day one , day five and every few days till week 5 then upload every couple of days from then on Dont forget to put the link through to your channel on your trademe advert . Remember to add in that your dog and bitch are both dna health tested and clear and that they are both DNA tested as 100% poodle. That is your point of difference from all the real backyard breeders. Your a pro , also ensure you put a pic of the dog and bitch in your TM advert. If you get a request for a copy of the dna results send it but ensure you watermark it in MS word as a copy of < your bitches & dogs name and date of litter >
This stops them using it for nefarious purposes.
Conclusion
Breeding poodles is a rewarding endeavour, but it demands commitment to responsible practices. Prioritize the health and well-being of your breeding dogs and puppies. Continuously educate yourself, stay updated on industry best practices, and contribute positively to the world of dog breeding.
Chapter 10: Grooming
Do yourself a favour
Buy a dog dryer
Shernbao Cyclone Dryer with Heater – Blue
or this is the commercial one we have:
Shernbao Typhoon Velocity Dryer with Heater – Ruby
And a set of clippers with a full stainless set of combs.
Check out aliexpress or allgroom.co.nz
Just ensure you can get replacement blades for it if buying from aliexpress.
When bathing use human shower wash ( not shampoo ) and human pump conditioner for dry hair.
Once youve towelled the dog off , dry it using the dryer ( make sure you are holding onto the dryer nozzle when you turn it on. DRY IT ALL OVER ( bar the head) , ALL THE WAY DRY.
The dryer will blow all the knots out and straighten the fur.
Watch a youtube demo on grooming your poodle with clippers. There are heaps of them.
When you use a dryer the amount of air blown is immense and it makes for a much easier clip session. There is only a week between a good cut and a not so good cut so be brave.
Last tips:
– Always wash and dry before clipping as dirty coats kill blades.
– Always have a spare set of clipper blades on hand.
– Those cheap scissors at the supermarket are just fine, however the curved blades and chunkers are great tools to have for great finishes. While you are just doing “puppy cuts “ you don’t need them.
– LASTLY : If your dog has had enough, remember, there is always another day tomorrow.
Have a great day , I hope this helps and answers all your questions.
Recipe for soft food :
4 kg lean beef pet mince, 1 dessert spoon crushed garlic , ½ cup olive oil, 2 litres water.
Boil/ cook it off , thicken with 4 tablespoons wholemeal flour mixed in 2-3 cups water.
Put 4 mugs white rice in the 10 cup rice cooker ( kmart cheapo ) add 6 mugs water and cook
Blend the cooked rice with the meat and freeze in day lots in containers
Tip :
– rice goes off quickly and produces a poison, so freeze the mix to ensure you don’t feed poison rice to the dog. Its simple.
– Also do not use chicken pet mince, if it has chicken carcasses in it, there may be chicken bone splinters in it, which isn’t ideal for dogs.
BTW ; Nobody gets all their pups through every time, it is a life lesson.
Some wont make it.
Normally its something we do wrong … the power fluctuates and the heating mat turns off. Or the bitch doesn’t feed one and I miss it. These are things you can change with care and time. Other times the bitch actively pushes one out … its alive and you cant see why she is rejecting it. Most times, that pup wont make it, even if you bottle feed it. Dont ask why … it is, what it is.
And yes, it makes you grit your teeth and you feel awful because and you couldn’t save the poor wee mite and then to top it off you have to flush $2k down the loo.
